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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.